Agulo is often called the prettiest village on La Gomera — a cluster of red-tiled roofs and white walls set on a green terrace high above the sea, framed by cliffs and gazing across the water to the great cone of Teide. Tucked on the island's lush northern coast, it feels almost like a stage set: cobbled lanes, a striking domed church, banana terraces tumbling to the shore and, on a clear day, one of the most spectacular views in the whole archipelago. For lovers of scenery, tranquillity and the "real" Canaries, Agulo is a jewel.
Perched on the north coast of La Gomera, close to the ancient laurel forest of Garajonay, Agulo is a place to slow right down. Come for the views, the walks and the timeless village atmosphere.
What it's like
Agulo occupies a natural balcony — a flat green shelf of land sitting between towering cliffs and the Atlantic, with the village houses gathered tightly around a domed church and a maze of narrow, cobbled streets. From the edge of the terrace the sea stretches north, and across it, weather permitting, rises the snow-dusted peak of Teide on neighbouring Tenerife, floating above the clouds. It's a view that stops visitors in their tracks.
This is the green, misty side of an already green island, kept lush by the trade winds, with banana plantations on the terraces below. The village is small, quiet and thoroughly local — a handful of bars and shops, the sound of church bells, and a pace that has barely changed in decades. There's no resort here at all, and that's precisely why people fall for it.
What to see and do
Agulo is a place to wander and gaze rather than tick off attractions. Explore the cobbled old town, admire the unusual domed church of San Marcos, and take in the coastal views from the village edge. The nearby Mirador de Abrante is the essential outing: a viewpoint perched high on the cliff above the village, with a glass skywalk that juts out over the drop for a dizzying look down onto Agulo's rooftops and across to Teide — see our guide to the Mirador de Abrante.
Above the village lies the great prize of La Gomera: Garajonay National Park, a UNESCO-listed remnant of ancient laurel forest (laurisilva) draped in mist and moss, with wonderful walking trails winding through the trees. Agulo is one of the classic starting points for hikes up into the forest and back down to the coast — read our guides to Garajonay National Park and to hiking in the Canary Islands. The park's visitor centre is close by.
For the famous Teide view, come on a clear morning — by afternoon the north often clouds over. And bring layers: the misty highland forest above Agulo is far cooler and damper than the coast.
Where to stay and eat
Agulo is a tiny village, so accommodation is limited to a few casas rurales (country cottages), guesthouses and holiday lets, ideal for walkers and travellers wanting peace, character and a hire car. Many visitors are based in the capital or elsewhere on the island and come for the day; our where to stay guide compares La Gomera's bases.
Food is honest and local. La Gomera is famous for its almogrote — a rich, spreadable cheese-and-pepper paste — as well as palm honey (miel de palma) tapped from the island's palms, fresh fish and hearty country cooking with the ever-present papas arrugadas and mojo. Small village bars and restaurants are the place to try them; our Canarian food guide has more. Evenings here are peaceful — a good dinner and a starry sky, not nightlife.
Getting there and around
Agulo is on the north coast of La Gomera, around 30–40 minutes' drive from the capital and ferry port of San Sebastián on winding mountain roads, often crossing the forested spine of the island. A hire car is by far the best way to reach it and to explore the north and the national park — see our guides to car hire and getting around. Most visitors reach La Gomera by ferry from Los Cristianos on Tenerife; our ferries between the islands guide has the routes.
Nearby
Just along the coast lies the larger northern town of Hermigua in its banana-filled valley, while up in the misty heights sit Garajonay and the island's other great villages. On the far west, the sunny valley of Valle Gran Rey offers beaches and a laid-back scene, and the rock towers of Los Órganos rise from the sea off the north coast. Start with our La Gomera hub to build a slow, scenic trip around this loveliest of small islands.