Vallehermoso — the name means "beautiful valley" — lives up to it: a green, terraced village in the north of La Gomera, set beneath the great volcanic plug of Roque Cano. Palms and banana plots fill the valley floor, old cultivation terraces climb the hillsides, and walking trails fan out into some of the lushest scenery in the Canaries. Far from any resort, this is quiet, authentic, gloriously scenic island country — the kind of place walkers and nature lovers fall for.
The main town of La Gomera's verdant north, Vallehermoso is a working village rather than a holiday spot, and better for it. It sits within reach of the island's famous laurel forest and boasts its own natural sea pool down at the coast, making it a rewarding base or day trip on La Gomera.
What it's like
Vallehermoso spreads across a broad green valley in the wetter, greener north of the island, where the trade winds keep everything lush. Whitewashed houses cluster among palms and terraced fields, and looming over it all is Roque Cano, a dramatic volcanic rock spire that gives the village its unmistakable backdrop. The setting is pure La Gomera: deep ravines, steep terraces and a sense of nature very close at hand.
The mood is calm, rural and thoroughly local — a small town where farming and everyday life carry on much as they always have, with only a trickle of independent travellers and walkers passing through. There are no crowds, no resort trappings, just a genuine, peaceful village in a spectacular natural setting.
Photo: Javier Sánchez Portero · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · scaled
What to see and do
This is above all walking country. A web of trails climbs out of the valley, over old terraces and up towards the misty heights, and Vallehermoso makes a natural base for exploring the north of the island on foot. Our guide to hiking in the Canary Islands helps you choose a route — from gentle valley strolls to demanding climbs — and reminds you to carry water and check the weather, as the north can turn cloudy.
Down at the coast, the village has its own natural sea pool and a black-sand beach at the Playa de Vallehermoso, a lovely spot for a swim when the Atlantic is calm. Roque Cano itself is a fine objective for walkers and photographers, and the surrounding terraces and palm groves reward anyone who simply wanders and looks.
The northern coast of La Gomera faces the open Atlantic and swell can make the sea rough. Swim in the sheltered sea pool rather than the open water, and always heed local flags and conditions.
Where to stay and eat
Eating in Vallehermoso is a simple, local pleasure: village restaurants and bars serving hearty Gomeran cooking — fresh fish, grilled meats, watercress stew (potaje de berros) and the island's beloved almogrote, a punchy cured-cheese paste, always with papas arrugadas and mojo. It's honest, seasonal island food of the sort our Canarian food guide loves.
Accommodation is small-scale — rural cottages (casas rurales), guesthouses and small hotels — well suited to walkers and nature lovers wanting a quiet northern base. Others visit on a day trip from the capital or stay elsewhere on the island; our where to stay guide compares the options across these very different islands.
Getting there and around
Vallehermoso lies in the north of La Gomera, reached by winding but scenic mountain roads that cross the island's central heights. A hire car is much the best way to get here and to explore the north, though confident driving on bends is a must — see our guides to getting around and car hire. Most visitors reach La Gomera by ferry from Tenerife to the capital, San Sebastián, then drive across; our ferries between the islands guide has the detail. Local buses serve the town but run infrequently.
Nearby
Vallehermoso sits on the doorstep of La Gomera's greatest natural treasure, the ancient laurel forest of Garajonay National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site of dripping, moss-hung woodland high on the island's spine. Along the coast lies the pretty valley town of Hermigua with its own terraces and sea pool. Start with our La Gomera hub to build a walking trip around this beautiful green corner.