Puerto del Carmen

Puerto del Carmen is Lanzarote's main resort — and a masterclass in doing tourism the low-key way. Strung along several kilometres of the island's south-east coast, it's a long, low-rise ribbon of beaches, bars and restaurants that never rises above the palm trees, in keeping with Lanzarote's strict no-high-rise ethos. Add sheltered golden sands, an old fishing harbour, some of the Canaries' best diving and a gentle, family-friendly buzz, and you have the island's most popular place to stay.

What it's like

Lanzarote decided early on that it would not become another wall of concrete towers — much of that thanks to the vision of artist César Manrique — and Puerto del Carmen is the result. The resort stretches along the coast rather than up into the sky, all whitewashed, low-rise buildings, green-shuttered and blending into the volcanic landscape. It's relaxed, spread out and easy to like.

The resort has two distinct sides. The long, modern Avenida de las Playas runs behind the main beach, lined with restaurants, bars and shops. At the western end sits the older Puerto Viejo (Old Harbour), a pretty fishing port with a cluster of seafood restaurants and a more traditional feel — the two ends giving the resort both holiday buzz and a touch of Canarian character.

Because it stretches for several kilometres, Puerto del Carmen never feels crowded even in peak season — the crowds spread out along the front rather than concentrating in one spot. That, plus reliable sunshine and a mostly older, family-oriented crowd, gives the whole resort an unhurried, easy-going rhythm that keeps visitors coming back year after year.

Playa Grande and the beaches

The main beach, Playa Grande (Playa Blanca), is a long, gently curving stretch of golden sand right in front of the Avenida, with calm, clear water that's ideal for swimming and paddling. A series of smaller sandy coves runs along the coast towards the old harbour, several sheltered and shallow enough to suit young families. The Blue Flag often flies here, and the sunshine is famously reliable — Lanzarote is one of the driest islands in the archipelago. Browse more of the island's coast in our beaches section.

Diving and watersports

Puerto del Carmen is one of the top diving destinations in the Canary Islands, thanks to warm, clear water, easy shore entries and dramatic volcanic underwater scenery of walls, arches and lava caves teeming with marine life. There's a cluster of dive schools in the resort catering to everyone from first-timers to experienced divers.

Beyond diving, the calm bays are great for snorkelling, paddleboarding, kayaking and boat trips, and you can arrange excursions from the old harbour. See our guide to boat trips and watersports for what's on offer.

Where to stay and who it suits

Accommodation is overwhelmingly low-rise: apartment complexes, aparthotels and mid-sized hotels spread along the coast, with the choice of being near the lively Avenida or the quieter old-harbour end. It's generally good value and well suited to independent self-caterers.

Puerto del Carmen suits families, couples and older travellers who want dependable sunshine, a good beach and an easy-going atmosphere rather than a party. Younger visitors looking for a bit more nightlife are still well served along the Avenida. For a smarter southern base try Playa Blanca, or the calm, purpose-built Costa Teguise further north. Our where to stay guide compares them.

Eating and nightlife

The Avenida de las Playas is one long run of restaurants and bars — everything from international menus and steakhouses to Italian, Indian and Chinese, plus plenty of family-friendly options. For something more local and memorable, head to the Puerto Viejo, where the harbourside restaurants serve fresh fish and Canarian cooking; try papas arrugadas with mojo and a glass of Lanzarote wine, grown in the island's extraordinary volcanic vineyards. Nightlife is gentle and sociable — bars with live music, cocktails on the Avenida and relaxed evenings rather than big clubs.

Days out from the resort

Puerto del Carmen is centrally placed for the whole island, and most of Lanzarote's headline sights are within an hour's drive. Timanfaya's fire mountains, the volcanic vineyards of La Geria, the old capital of Teguise with its famous Sunday market, and the sea caves and cliff-top viewpoints of the north all make easy day trips. The pretty golden coves of Papagayo, near Playa Blanca, are a slightly longer run south but well worth it. Our things to do section gathers the best of them.

Getting there and around

Lanzarote Airport (ACE) is only a short drive north of the resort, so transfers are quick and easy. The resort is long and thin, so a local bus and taxis are handy for getting from one end to the other, though the beachfront promenade is a lovely walk. To reach the rest of the island — Timanfaya, the Manrique sites, the northern beaches — a hire car is the most flexible option. Our getting around guide covers the practicalities, and viamo's route guides help with transfers and connections.

Nearby

Puerto del Carmen is well placed for the whole island: the fire mountains of Timanfaya National Park, the capital Arrecife, and the string of remarkable art-and-nature sites created by César Manrique. Start with our Lanzarote hub to plan the rest of your trip.