Granadilla de Abona is a historic hill town in southern Tenerife — an old, unhurried centre of white houses and a fine 18th-century church that most sun-seekers rush past on their way to the coast. Yet its municipality stretches all the way to the sea, taking in the windsurfing mecca of El Médano and the red cone of Montaña Roja, making it a rewarding two-in-one: real Canarian town above, spectacular beaches below.
Come for a genuine slice of southern island life away from the resorts, an atmospheric old quarter, and easy access to some of Tenerife's wildest and most natural coastline. It's a refreshing counterpoint to the built-up strips further west.
What it's like
The old town of Granadilla sits inland on the sunny southern slopes, at a comfortable altitude where the air is a touch fresher than on the coast. This was one of the more important settlements of the arid south before tourism arrived, a farming and trading centre, and it retains a dignified, workaday character with almost no package tourism in the streets.
The contrast within the municipality is striking. Up here it's slow, local and traditional — Spanish spoken everywhere, an old church at the centre, quiet plazas. Down on the coast, the district opens onto a very different world of wind-blown beaches, watersports and easygoing seaside villages. Together they let you sample two sides of the south in a single day.
Photo: Jose Mesa · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons · scaled
What to see and do
The old town
Granadilla's historic centre is a pleasant, authentic wander: whitewashed houses with wooden balconies, narrow streets, and at its heart the handsome 18th-century church of San Antonio de Padua, one of the notable churches of the southern region. There's a small local museum and a scattering of traditional shops and bars where the pace is unhurried and the welcome genuine. It won't take a whole day, but it's a lovely, honest stop that shows the south as it was before the airport and the resorts.
El Médano and the coast
The municipality's coastal star is El Médano, a laid-back seaside town with the longest natural golden-sand beaches on Tenerife and a global reputation for windsurfing and kitesurfing — the reliable trade winds here are legendary among watersports fans. It has a relaxed, slightly bohemian feel, with beachfront cafés, an easy village mood and none of the high-rise sprawl of the bigger resorts. Our guide to El Médano has the full picture.
The same winds that make El Médano a windsurfing paradise can whip up the sand on the beach. For calm sunbathing, come early or on a lighter-wind day; for watersports, the breeze is exactly what you want.
Montaña Roja
Guarding the end of El Médano's bay is Montaña Roja ("Red Mountain"), a striking rust-coloured volcanic cone and protected nature reserve. A gentle path leads to its summit for wonderful views over the coast, the beaches and the sea, and its flanks shelter quiet coves — including a well-known naturist beach. It's an easy, satisfying walk and one of the south's most photogenic landmarks; see our guide to Montaña Roja.
Where to stay and eat
Most visitors who want a beach base choose El Médano on the coast, with its apartments, small hotels and surf-town buzz, rather than the old town inland — though Granadilla itself has guesthouses and rural cottages for a quiet, local stay. It suits independent travellers, windsurfers and anyone who prefers character to a big resort.
Eating spans both worlds: honest Canarian cooking and tapas in the old town, and a good spread of relaxed beachfront restaurants and international cafés in El Médano, where fresh fish and papas arrugadas with mojo are always on the menu. Read more in our Canarian food guide.
Getting there and around
Granadilla de Abona sits in the south, right beside Tenerife South airport — El Médano is barely 10 minutes from the terminal, making this one of the quickest places on the island to reach after landing. The big southern resorts are around 20–30 minutes west. A hire car is ideal for combining the hill town, the coast and Montaña Roja — see our guides to getting around and car hire. Buses (guaguas) and the airport are all close by.
Nearby
The area is well connected to the rest of the south. West along the coast lie the resorts of Los Cristianos and Costa Adeje, with their big beaches and attractions; inland and up the mountain roads is the high village of Vilaflor, gateway to the pine forests and the road to Mount Teide. Nearby beaches like La Tejita add to the coastal options. Start with our Tenerife hub to weave this two-sided corner of the south into the rest of your trip.