Rising in a great rust-red dome above the windsurfing town of El Médano, Montaña Roja is one of Tenerife's most distinctive natural landmarks — a 170-metre volcanic cone the colour of terracotta, guarding a coastline of wild, wind-blown beaches. It gives its name to a protected nature reserve at the island's sunny southern tip, and it's an easy, rewarding climb with sweeping views over the ocean, the dunes and, on a clear day, the great pyramid of Mount Teide inland. For a walk that costs nothing and delivers a real sense of place, it's hard to beat.
The red mountain
Montaña Roja — literally "red mountain" — gets its striking colour from iron-rich volcanic rock, weathered over the ages into rusty ochres and reds that glow especially warmly in the low light of morning and evening. It sits right on the coast just outside El Médano, at the far south of Tenerife, and forms the backdrop to one of the island's best-loved stretches of natural, undeveloped shoreline. The whole area is a designated Special Nature Reserve, protecting the cone itself, the pale dunes at its foot and the fragile plants that cling to them.
An easy climb with big rewards
Reaching the summit is well within most people's reach. A clear path winds up from the beach, and while the last section is a little steeper and looser underfoot, it's a short walk rather than a serious hike — most reasonably fit visitors are up in half an hour or so. From the top the reward is a full sweep of the coast: turquoise shallows, surfers and windsurfers scudding across the bay, the town of El Médano to one side, empty golden beaches to the other, and Teide's snow-dusted cone often visible far inland.
Go early or late, and bring the right footwear. The path is exposed with no shade, so a cool morning or the golden hour before sunset is far more pleasant than the midday heat — and the light on the red rock is at its best then too. Trainers or walking shoes with grip make the sandy, gravelly sections much easier than flip-flops.
Wild beaches on either side
Part of the appeal of Montaña Roja is what lies around it. This is one of the windiest corners of Tenerife, which has made El Médano a world-class spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing — the bay is often dotted with colourful sails. But walk around the base of the mountain and you'll find quieter, more natural beaches too, including the long, wild sweep of La Tejita on the far side, backed by dunes and free of the sunbed-and-parasol machinery of the big resorts. The water is clean and inviting, though the same wind that draws the surfers can whip up the sand and the swell.
Respect the reserve — and mind the wind. The dunes and their plants are protected and easily damaged, so keep to marked paths and take all your litter home. There's little shelter anywhere here, so on breezy days sand can sting and the sea can get choppy; check conditions before swimming, and don't underestimate the sun on the exposed slopes.
Birdlife and nature
The reserve is a haven for coastal and desert-loving wildlife. The sparse scrub and dunes attract small birds, waders along the shore and, if you're lucky and patient, some of the specialities that draw enthusiasts to the Canaries. The islands are a genuinely rewarding destination for birdwatching, with several species found nowhere else on Earth, and the mix of habitats around Montaña Roja — rock, dune, scrub and shoreline — is a good place to keep your binoculars handy. Early morning is best, before the beach crowds and the wind pick up.
El Médano — the town at its foot
The mountain and the town go together. El Médano is one of the most laid-back resorts in the south, with a relaxed, slightly bohemian, surfy feel that's a world away from the big package strips further west. Its long promenade, natural beaches and easygoing cafés make it a lovely base or a good half-day out, and the walk up Montaña Roja is the classic thing to do while you're there. Cool off with a swim or a drink on the seafront afterwards and you've got a near-perfect morning.
Combine it with a beach day. Time your climb for the cooler part of the day, then spend the rest of it on the sand at El Médano beach or nearby La Tejita. Bring water shoes if you plan to swim, as parts of the shoreline are stony, and a windbreak is no bad idea on gusty days.
Getting there
Montaña Roja sits close to Tenerife South airport, so it's an easy first or last stop on a holiday. With a hire car it's a short, well-signed drive to El Médano, where there's parking near the beach — arrive early on busy days, as the closest spaces fill up. Local buses also serve the town from the southern resorts, and it's an easy addition to a day exploring the south of the island. However you come, the red mountain makes a memorable landmark and one of the best free things to do in Tenerife.
A rust-red cone, a wild windswept coast and Teide on the horizon — Montaña Roja packs a lot of Tenerife into one short, satisfying climb.