Arucas

Arucas is Gran Canaria's handsome northern town — a place of banana plantations, dark volcanic stone and the island's most famous rum, crowned by a soaring neo-Gothic church that locals proudly call "the cathedral". Just a short hop inland from Las Palmas, it's a genuine working town rather than a resort, and one of the easiest and most rewarding day trips on the green side of the island.

Come for the extraordinary church, the old rum distillery that has been bottling here for well over a century, and a compact old centre of carved stone and shady squares. Then climb the little mountain that gives the town its name for one of the finest views on Gran Canaria.

What it's like

Arucas sits in the fertile, sub-tropical north, where trade-wind cloud keeps the land greener and cooler than the sun-baked south. The town is built largely from the local blue-grey volcanic stone, which gives its streets a solid, slightly grand feel — this was once one of the richest towns on the island, its fortune built on sugar cane and later bananas, and the money shows in the fine buildings.

The mood is unhurried and thoroughly local. You'll hear far more Spanish than English, the pace runs on island time, and the visitors you meet are mostly independent travellers and Canarians out for a stroll. It feels authentic because it is: a real town going about its business, with tourism a pleasant sideline rather than the main event.

What to see and do

The "cathedral" of San Juan Bautista

The town's showpiece is the church of San Juan Bautista, a vast neo-Gothic pile that looks centuries old but was actually begun in 1909 and built over several decades from that dark local stone. Its bristling spires and pointed arches loom over the low town like something transplanted from northern Europe, and the scale is genuinely startling when you first turn the corner and see it. Step inside for the cool, lofty nave and some fine stained glass. It isn't a cathedral in the strict church sense, but nobody in Arucas will thank you for pointing that out.

The Arehucas rum distillery

Arucas is rum country. The Destilerías Arehucas has been making rum and liqueurs here since the late 19th century, using sugar cane that once carpeted the surrounding fields, and it's among the best-known drinks brands in the Canaries. Tours take you past the atmospheric ageing cellar, where thousands of oak barrels — many signed by visiting celebrities and dignitaries over the decades — rest in the gloom, and finish with a tasting of rums and the sweet honey-rum liqueur the islands love. It's an easy, enjoyable visit; our guide to the Arehucas rum distillery has the practical detail, and you can read more about the archipelago's tipples in our Canarian drinks guide.

The old centre and the town gardens

The historic core rewards a slow wander: pedestrian lanes of carved stone, the pretty Plaza de San Juan in the church's shadow, and the lush municipal gardens (Jardín de la Marquesa nearby is a private botanical estate worth seeking out). Look out for the local stonemasons' craft everywhere — Arucas stone has been used in landmark buildings across the island and beyond.

Montaña de Arucas

Just above town rises the Montaña de Arucas, a small volcanic cone you can drive most of the way up. From the mirador at the top the whole north coast unfolds — a patchwork of banana plantations running down to the Atlantic, the town and its church below, and on clear days the outline of the central mountains. It's a five-minute detour for a genuinely memorable panorama.

Where to stay and eat

Arucas is a day-trip town more than a place to stay, and most visitors base themselves in Las Palmas or the southern resorts and come for a few hours. There are a handful of small guesthouses and rural cottages (casas rurales) in and around the town for those who want a quiet, local base with a car.

For eating, the old centre has honest, good-value spots serving Canarian home cooking — grilled meats, fresh fish, papas arrugadas with mojo — around the church squares. This is the fertile north, so local produce, from bananas to sub-tropical fruit, features on the plate. Read more in our Canarian food guide.

Getting there and around

Arucas lies just inland from the north coast, only about 15–20 minutes' drive from the capital and roughly an hour from the southern resorts. A hire car is the easiest way to visit, and lets you combine the town with the mountain viewpoint and the villages beyond — see our guides to getting around and car hire. Frequent buses (guaguas) also run from Las Palmas if you'd rather not drive.

Nearby

Arucas sits at the heart of the green north, perfectly placed for exploring the region's other gems. Neighbouring Firgas is famous for its water and its remarkable stepped promenade; the pilgrimage town of Teror, with its wooden balconies and basilica, is a short drive inland; and the pretty valley of Moya lies just to the west. From here it's easy to loop up into the mountains or along the coast toward Agaete. Start with our Gran Canaria hub to build the rest of your trip around this rich northern corner.