On the east coast of Tenerife, the seaside town of Candelaria is home to the most important church in the Canary Islands — the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, shrine of the archipelago's patron saint. Facing it across a broad seafront plaza stands a magnificent line of bronze statues of the ancient Guanche kings, gazing out to sea. Half place of pilgrimage, half open-air history lesson, Candelaria is a moving and atmospheric stop on any tour of Tenerife, and an easy trip from the resorts and the capital.
The Canaries' most important church
The basilica houses the image of the Virgen de la Candelaria, patron saint of the whole Canary Islands. According to tradition, a statue of the Virgin appeared on the shore here before the Spanish conquest and was venerated even by the island's aboriginal people — a story that has made Candelaria a place of devotion for centuries. The present church, a handsome building facing the ocean, holds the revered image above its main altar and draws pilgrims from across the islands, above all during the great August pilgrimage in the Virgin's honour.
It is a working shrine, so dress and behave respectfully. Cover shoulders and knees, keep quiet inside, and be discreet with cameras, particularly during Mass. The basilica is free to enter, but it is first and foremost a place of prayer for many islanders.
The statues of the Guanche kings
The other unmissable sight is the row of nine great bronze figures lined along the seafront in front of the basilica. Each represents a mencey — one of the aboriginal chieftains who ruled the nine ancient kingdoms of Tenerife before the conquest. Powerful, dignified and larger than life, they stand with their backs to the church and their faces to the Atlantic, and have become one of the island's most photographed sights. Walking the line of statues, with the waves breaking behind them, is a strangely stirring experience and a fine tribute to the island's first people.
Mind the sea on the plaza. The statues stand on an exposed seafront where Atlantic swells can send spray — and occasionally waves — over the promenade and the black-sand beach. In rough weather keep well back from the water's edge and heed any warnings.
The town and square
Candelaria itself is a pleasant, genuinely Canarian town rather than a resort. Around the basilica you'll find the large seafront square, cafés and shops selling religious souvenirs and local produce, and a dark-sand beach popular with local families. It is an enjoyable place to stroll, sit with a coffee and watch island life go by, especially at weekends. The town makes its own traditional sweets and is a good, unhurried spot to soak up everyday Tenerife away from the tourist strips.
Getting there
Candelaria lies just off the TF-1 motorway on the east coast, only around 20 minutes south of Santa Cruz and easily reached from the southern resorts too. It is simple to visit by hire car, with parking near the seafront, and frequent buses connect it with the capital and the university city of La Laguna inland. If you are staying in the north or centre, it pairs well with a day taking in the eastern coast.
Combine with Güímar
Candelaria sits right next to another of the east coast's curiosities, so the two make a natural pairing. Just down the road, the Pirámides de Güímar present their mysterious stepped stone terraces and the story of Thor Heyerdahl's theories about them. Between the shrine, the kings and the pyramids you have a full and varied day mixing faith, aboriginal history and open-ended mystery — a very different side of Tenerife from its beaches and water parks.
It is one of the most rewarding cultural outings on the island, and a chance to connect with both the deep Guanche past and the living traditions that still shape Canarian life today.
The islands' holiest shrine and nine bronze kings staring out to sea — Candelaria is where Tenerife's faith and its aboriginal past meet on the Atlantic shore.
Come for the basilica, linger for the statues and the square, and pair it with Güímar next door. For more ideas across the island, browse our full list of things to do.