Playa de las Mujeres is one of the wildest and loveliest of Lanzarote's Papagayo coves — a scoop of golden sand and turquoise water tucked into the protected Los Ajaches headland, just beyond Playa Blanca at the island's southern tip. Reached down a dusty dirt track and framed by raw ochre cliffs, it has no buildings, no bars and no crowds to spoil the view. For beach lovers chasing the untouched, postcard side of Lanzarote, it's about as good as it gets.
How to get there
Playa de las Mujeres sits within the Monumento Natural de Los Ajaches, part of the famous Papagayo group of coves. From Playa Blanca you follow an unpaved track out to the headland, usually paying a small per-car fee at the gate to enter the protected area. The dirt road is dusty and bumpy but generally passable with care in an ordinary hire car driven slowly. Alternatively, walk or cycle in along the coastal path from Playa Blanca, or take the seasonal water taxi round from the resort's marina. The effort of getting here keeps it wonderfully quiet.
Come early. The clifftop parking is limited and fills fast in high season, the morning light on the water is gorgeous, and there's almost no shade later in the day.
Photo: Frank Vincentz · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · scaled
What it's like
This is a broad, gently curving cove of pale golden sand backed by low reddish cliffs and volcanic hills, with strikingly clear, calm water in shades of turquoise and blue. There are no hotels, promenades or sunbed rows — just the sand, the sea and the raw natural setting. A clifftop path links it to the neighbouring Papagayo coves, so you can wander between them and pick the quietest. The colours and the sense of unspoilt space are exactly why people make the trek out here.
Swimming and safety
The cove faces south and is naturally sheltered, so the water is usually among the calmest and clearest on the island — excellent for a relaxed swim or a spot of snorkelling over the gently shelving sand. That said, there are normally no lifeguards out in this protected area, so swim within your limits, watch children closely, and take normal care with the occasional swell or current. On a typical day the sea's gentleness is a big part of the magic.
Bring everything you need. There are no facilities, no shop and little natural shade out here. Pack plenty of water, food, sun cream, a hat and your own shade — and take every scrap of rubbish home to protect the fragile reserve.
Facilities
Expect essentially nothing, and you'll enjoy it all the more. As a protected natural space, Playa de las Mujeres has no sunbeds, no beach bars and no toilets to rely on — at most you might find a simple kiosk near the main Papagayo cove some distance away. There's no shop for supplies once you're out here and no reliable shade. This is a come-fully-self-sufficient beach, and its lack of development is precisely what makes it feel so special and untouched.
Best for whom
This cove is for beach lovers who value natural beauty and clear, calm water over facilities and convenience — couples, snorkellers, walkers and families happy to bring their own kit. It's ideal if you're staying in Playa Blanca and want the island's prettiest, quietest swimming. It's not the place for anyone who needs sunbeds, beach bars or easy step-free access; for that, the serviced town beaches of Playa Blanca are the better choice. If unspoilt coves are your dream, it's unmissable.
Nearby
The rest of the Papagayo coves lie along the same headland, each a scoop of golden sand worth exploring on foot. The bright resort of Playa Blanca is close by, with its promenade, restaurants and the ferry across to Fuerteventura, and the volcanic wonderland of Timanfaya National Park is within reach inland. For where to stay and the best of the island, see our full guide to Lanzarote.