Playa Bollullo is Tenerife at its wild, elemental best — a dramatic cove of jet-black volcanic sand hemmed in by cliffs, reached only on foot down a path through banana plantations near Puerto de la Cruz on the island's green north coast. There are no sunbeds to hire, no rows of hotels and precious few facilities; what there is instead is raw Atlantic scenery, thundering surf and a real sense of having escaped the resorts. It's one of the most photogenic and atmospheric beaches on Tenerife — and one to treat with respect.
Black sand and banana plantations
Bollullo's dark sand is pure Tenerife: volcanic in origin, warm underfoot and a striking contrast against the white surf and green cliffs. The beach is backed by tall walls of rock and, above them, the terraced banana plantations that carpet this fertile northern coast. Reaching the sand is part of the experience — you walk down through and alongside these plantations on a well-trodden but unpaved path, with the ocean opening up dramatically as you descend the final stretch.
Getting there
Bollullo lies a few kilometres east of the resort town of Puerto de la Cruz, below the district of El Rincón near La Orotava. The usual approach is to drive or bus to the trailhead area and then walk in: from the nearest parking it's roughly a 15–25 minute walk down through the plantations to the beach, and of course an uphill climb back out. There's a well-known bar-restaurant on the cliff above where the path begins, a handy landmark and a welcome stop on the way back up. The lack of a road right to the sand is exactly what keeps Bollullo unspoilt.
Wear proper footwear, not flip-flops — the path is uneven and partly rocky, and there are steps and slopes. Bring plenty of water and everything else you'll need, because there's very little for sale down at the beach itself.
Swimming and safety
This is the crucial part. Bollullo faces the open Atlantic with no breakwater, so the surf is often powerful and the currents can be strong and dangerous. On calm days people do swim and it can be glorious, but conditions change quickly, there are frequently big waves, and the beach is not reliably lifeguarded. This is a beach where you must read the sea honestly rather than assume it's safe.
Take the water seriously. Playa Bollullo has strong Atlantic surf and rip currents and little or no lifeguard cover. Only enter the water if you're a strong, confident swimmer and the sea is genuinely calm, never swim alone, keep well clear on rough days, and watch children closely near the shore break. If you want safe, calm swimming, choose the sheltered Playa de las Teresitas instead.
What it's like
Bollullo is about atmosphere rather than amenities. It's wild, scenic and relatively quiet, especially on weekdays and outside peak hours, and the combination of black sand, crashing white surf and the green cliffs behind is unforgettable. Many visitors come as much to walk, sunbathe and take photographs as to swim — sitting on the dark sand watching the Atlantic roll in is the whole point. Because it's undeveloped, it keeps a peaceful, natural feel that the big resort beaches simply can't match.
Facilities
Keep your expectations low and you won't be disappointed. Facilities are minimal — this is a natural beach with no sunbed hire and, at most, very limited services on the sand itself. The bar-restaurant up at the top of the path is the main place for a drink or a bite, best enjoyed as a reward for the climb back up. There's little shade down on the beach, so bring your own sun cover. In short: come self-sufficient.
Best for
Bollullo is for walkers, photographers, sunbathers and anyone who wants a wild, authentic slice of the north coast away from the crowds. It suits confident travellers happy to hike in and rough it a little. It is emphatically not for families wanting safe paddling, for anyone who needs step-free access, or for those who like their beach fully serviced — for that, head to a sheltered, golden beach like Las Teresitas.
Nearby
The lively resort town of Puerto de la Cruz, with its promenade, the Lago Martiánez sea-water pools and plenty of restaurants, is close by, and the historic town of La Orotava with its grand old houses sits just inland. The whole green, lush north of the island — a very different Tenerife from the sunny southern resorts — spreads out around it, and Bollullo makes a memorable centrepiece to a day exploring it. For where to stay and more of the island, see our guide to Tenerife.